Koh Samed - A Sunrise Worth Waking Up For

Date of Exploration : 14 Nov 2015

I love watching sunrises. Because it always feels like the universe is giving us a beautiful gift to start the day. And one of the best places to receive this present is at...



An offshore island in the Gulf of Thailand three hours by car from Bangkok, Koh Samed (also spelt "Ko Samet") offers a front row seat to enjoy an abduction of senses by the theatrics of dawn.

Since a majority of hotel and resort developments are along the east-facing coast of the T-shaped island stretching from Ao Lukyon to the popular Sai Kaew Beach and Ao Vongduen to the more remote Ao Karang ("ao" means "beach" in Thai), catching the sunrise is as simple as heading on to any of the beaches. Some sea facing resorts along this coastal stretch even have the vantage view of the sunrise knocking at their doors.

I had originally planned to catch the sunrise at Ao Lukyon, which is about 20 minutes on foot from Lima Bella Resort located in the Sai Kaew area. But you know how it is with waking up early... it's a tug-of-war between the will to get up and the body's attachment to the bed. By the time my will won the fight, the sky had already taken off its cloak of stars and began putting on the colours for the day.

It was about 6:00am (Thai time) when I left my resort and I knew I wouldn't make it in time to catch the moment when the sun emerges from the horizon if I were to walk to Ao Lukyon. So I decided to go with my instinct and entered the grounds of Baan Supparod Resort, which was opposite the entrance of Lima Bella resort.

I had no idea where I was heading and half expected to be stopped by security holding a super rod (the resort is called "Supparod", get it? Haha. Okay, if you've been reading this blog, you know I'm prone to cheesy jokes with phonetics.). Thankfully, I was allowed in and after a short walk in the direction of the resort's reception, I was by the edge of a rocky coastline in time capture the day's first light!

Front row seats at Baan Supparod Resort's viewing deck to watch nature's colour show. I was happy to find some trees around to serve as foreground to shoot the sunrise.

It would've been perfect to have someone special to share the magic of a sunrise with... but I was watching it alone.

Glad that the tree in the previous photo actually has a companion to watch sunrises and weather storms with.

Ta-da... the sun has risen! I shall christen this pair the Lover Trees (情人树) of Koh Samed :o)

Framing nature with nature.

I see a face with a pointed chin, one eye opened and another closed, and a head of wild hair. Do you?

The sunrise was perfect that day without clouds obscuring the luminous yolk.

All in about 20 minutes, the sunrise was over and a new day of making a difference begins...

Australia (Queensland) - Champagne Pools : The Toast of Fraser Island

Date of Exploration : 21 Nov 2014

What : Champagne Pools

Where : Fraser Island, Queensland, Australia

Landscape view of Fraser Island's Champagne Pools. Low tide exposes the volcanic rock fortress that created these incredible dipping holes right next to the gregarious ocean.

Just by its name alone, my enthusiasm to visit bubbled profusely with excitement. I can foresee getting high on an attraction whose christening conjures images of celebrations, good times, and epic fun.

When I finally arrived, however, my anticipation fizzled out. The Champagne Pools didn't look as delicious as the picture I had in my head. But that's because our visit coincided with low tide when the aquatic playground receded to just a sliver of seawater behind a rocky lip. Nevertheless, as I got closer to the water's edge, I became drunk on the unusual phenomenon where the tug-of-war between danger and tranquility are nowhere more apparent than here.

Azure seas and pretty powdery beaches are aplenty, but few could offer the natural thrill of soaking in a calm basin while being up close to waves crashing into rocks.

Our visit started with using the toilets and changing facilities on the hill (where the carpark is) before descending the steps to Champagne Pools. There are no sanitary amenities on the beach so better release when available.

Formidable waves constantly attempt to breach the rocky stronghold, creating many heart-stopping moments to behold.

Barnacles cement themselves onto the stone surfaces, making a barefoot trek into the outermost pool a test on balance and pain tolerance. Beach sandals, not slippers as they may get washed away, are highly recommended.

Flirting with danger... but it is actually rather safe as long as one stays within the protective rim.

Big splash! Welcome to a saltwater jacuzzi powered by nature.

Here's how Champagne Pools at Fraser Island got its name... As waves crash into the rock walls, seawater rush into the pool and bubbles like champagne. This unusual natural attraction is definitely the toast of Queensland.

A video posted by Darren Ng (@darrenn9) on Nov 11, 2014 at 6:28am PST

Enough of splashing around? Then just chill on the beach. Some locals top off the experience by bringing along chilled champagne to sip while drinking in the seaside drama.

Is this what is meant by a rocky relationship? The grand view on the volcanic bedrock out into the vast Pacific Ocean is bound to rekindle romance. 

What you don't see in this photo is the schools of small marine fish swimming in this deeper inner pool. Loving it here at nature's handcrafted aquarium!

Albeit our visit ran into low tide, the Champagne Pools still impresses with its rare proposition of swimming at the edge where titans clash.

Incidentally, this is also the only place you can swim in the sea on Fraser Island as swimming anywhere else along the island's coastline is discouraged due to rough waves, strong under currents and the presence of sharks and stingers.

For an unforgettable experience on Fraser Island, the Champagne Pools definitely has it made.

This post has been made possible by Tourism Queensland Singapore and CTC Travel. 

Australia (Queensland) - Maheno Shipwreck : A Ghostly Sculpture by the Sea

Date of Exploration : 21 Nov 2014

What : SS Maheno Shipwreck

Where : 75-Mile Beach, Fraser Island, Queensland, Australia

Maheno Shipwreck, a must-see attraction on Fraser Island.

Built in 1904 in Scotland, the 122m SS Maheno had the honour of being the first triple-screw steamer ever built and also the earliest ship to cross the Pacific Ocean. Historical records tell of it being used as a trans-Tasman trading ocean liner and luxury passenger cruise before being converted into a floating hospital by the New Zealand government during World War 1 in 1915.

After 5 years of transporting injured soldiers to Australia and New Zealand, the Maheno returned to civilian charge but was subsequently decommissioned and sold to a Japanese shipping company in 1935 as the ship became obsolete. Its new owner intended to salvage usable parts before melting the vessel down to sell as scrap metal.

For safety reasons, refrain from getting too close to the shipwreck so a camera with a powerful zoom lens would be handy to snap close-up shots.

To fund Maheno's journey from Australia to Japan, its huge brass propellers were sold off and the ship was slated to be towed by a ship named Ottawa to Osaka, Japan. Unfortunately, a freak cyclone broke the link between the two ships and without propellers to regain its course, Maheno drifted ashore to Fraser Island.

After numerous failed attempts to refloat the ship, efforts to remove it was abandoned and the ship became one of the top sights on Fraser Island.

Maheno's collapsed stern. As time passes, the ruins disintegrate further while the sand slowly swallows up this once magnificent ship.

During World War 2, the Maheno served as a target for bombing practice. We were told that none of the 2,000 plus bombs dropped on it managed to get a hit.

A ghostly shell of the past. Maheno means "island" in the native Maori language of New Zealand. How befitting that its final resting place is by the beautiful coastline of Fraser Island.

The end is eerily beautiful with the Maheno Shipwreck.

I see a face.

Ashes to ashes, rust to dust.

When I first saw a photo of the Maheno Shipwreck, "Ghost Ship" came to mind and I was really excited to see it in person. While it is still impressive, the ship had sunken further into the sand and not as tall as the brochures depicted. It still makes for a interesting photography spot though and I would imagine that the wreck will serve as a unique foreground to frame a sunrise.

So before the Maheno disappears totally into the sand beneath it, make a date to see this accidental sculpture by the sea that became the centrepiece jewel of 75-Mile Beach.

This post has been made possible by Tourism Queensland Singapore and CTC Travel.

Singapore's Best Kept Secret - Lazarus Island

Date of Exploration : 9 Mar 2014

Translucent turquoise waters, inviting foamy surf and an unspoilt powdery beach... I've never dreamed of using those adjectives on Singapore's beaches but a virgin trip to Lazarus Island had filled my vocabulary with praises for this little known piece of paradise!

Singapore is a nation of beach lovers starved of charming coast to chill. Not anymore. Lazarus Island has all the makings of a lost beach Eden that can rival some of the most popular beaches around Asia. The only thing missing is a so-spectacular-you-want-to-cry sunset view that would be the icing on this most handsome beach of our tiny red dot.

Exploring the beach of Lazarus Island for the first time and I liked what I saw.

While the seawater here is not crystal clear and the absence of marine life won't delight snorkel fans, the island's pristine coastline trumps that of East Coast Park, West Coast Park, Pasir Ris and the highly commercialised Sentosa beaches.

The appeal of Lazarus beach lies in its underdevelopment and anonymity. For now. So before the island gets turned into another money-maker with hordes of beach-goers jostling for space, hop over to this best kept secret of Singapore beaches and have your Blue Lagoon moment under the tropical sun!

Getting to Lazarus Island

Lazarus Island is part of a group of 8 islets collectively known as Singapore's Southern Islands which include Sentosa, St. John's Island, Kusu Island, Pulau Seringat, Pulau Tekukor and the two Sisters' Islands.

Currently, there are no direct ferries to Lazarus Island and getting there involves either chartering a private yacht (costing about S$400 for half a day) or taking a ferry to St. John's Island and walking over to Lazarus via a link bridge. The ferry serving St. John's Island can be boarded at Marina South Pier. You can get to the pier either by taxi or public transport.

Here's how to visit Lazarus on a budget...

1. Take the MRT to Marina Bay Station and use Exit B.

2. Go to the bus-stop (no. 03531) near the exit and take bus no. 402. The bus operates at a frequency of between 15 - 25 minutes depending on time of day. Check the bus' schedule here. It's 2 stops from Marina Bay MRT Station to Marina South Pier.

3. At Marina South Pier, look for the Singapore Island Cruise and Services counter (pictured below). A round-trip ferry ticket to St. John's Island then to Kusu Island and back to mainland costs S$18 (adult) and S$12 (child). Check the ferry's schedule here.

Marina South Pier... The orange stand is the Singapore Island Cruise and Ferry Services counter. No pre-booking or reservations of tickets allowed so you'll have to purchase on the spot. We arrived at 10.30am to board the 11:00am ferry.

Pictured is the ferry that took us to St. John's Island, Kusu Island, and back to mainland. There are toilets onboard and it takes 30 minutes from the pier to St. John's Island.

Tips when visiting :

- It is best to visit the islands on Sundays and public holidays as the ferry service operates till later compared to other days.

- Stock up on drinks and food before going as there are no shops on St. John's and Lazarus Island. There's a provision shop and small eatery at Marina South Pier where you can purchase supplies and pack meals.

Singapore Maritime Gallery

If you arrive early at Marina South Pier and have time to spare, check out the cool Singapore Maritime Gallery on level 2. The gallery is open Tuesdays to Sundays from 9:00am to 5:30pm. Admission is FREE.

I love the creative conversion of 'A' in Singapore into a directional arrow. The gallery features some pretty cool exhibits although I felt rather overpowered by the amount of information to read.

The innovative staging that featured containers, crates, oceanic waves and textures added life to a subject matter that doesn't have a natural audience. In addition to static ship model displays, there are also a couple of experiential exhibits where you can pretend to be a cargo controller at the maritime command center.

St. John's Island

A former island used to quarantine population with infectious diseases such as cholera, beri-beri and leprosy in the late 19th century, Saint John's Island was converted into a jail and drug rehab centre during the middle of the 20th century. Today, the island offers refuge from Singapore's hyper urbanity with tranquil greens for picnic or a frolic in its saltwater lagoons.

The last time I stepped on St. John's Island, I was listening to a cassette of Debbie Gibson's Out of the Blue album in a walkman. That's a loooog time ago! 

From St John's Island's jetty, turn left to Lazarus Island. If you turn right, you'll head towards the lodges and lagoon of St John's Island. As Lazarus Island is still not ready to receive visitors, there are no directional signs pointing the way at the moment.

Facing the end of the jetty were remnant fences and structures of St John's sentinel past. Instead of heading straight to Lazarus Island, we couldn't resist snapping the peculiars at our docking island. 

Thought the perspective would make for an 'artful' shot so got Siow Har to lie down on the ground for this pic...

... we were actually cam whoring at the ex-prison's toilet! LOL.

On foot to Lazarus Island, we passed by this piece of heavy machinery and decided to pose as Tractor Trash.

Low tide at St. John's Island exposes a mess network of sculptural mangrove roots that made for an interesting backdrop for narcissicsm. This photo brought 3 letters to mind... C. M. I.

Lots of cats lounging on St John's. If you have food in hand, you'll find fast feline friends. Okay, this cat was obviously not into pork coz it ignored me.

View of Lazarus Island from St John's Island. The two islands are linked by a bridge (mid right of the photo behind the breakwater).

Toeing the breakwater for a shot...

... of Singapore's commercial skyline.

Bridge to Lazarus Island from St John's Island.

Lazarus Island

Sandwiched between St John's Island and Kusu Island, Lazarus Island is also linked at one end to Pulau Seringat. Recreational developments are currently underway by Sentosa Leisure Group to possibly turn Lazarus into a resort.

Camping is not allowed on St John's, Lazarus or Kusu islands and the islands are fast becoming favourite spots for anglers to hook up fresh catch such as selars, tambans, groupers, squids, etc.

Upon stepping on Lazarus Island, we saw this tiny stretch of beach. We weren't impressed. And disappointed that we made the effort to see something this nondescript.

Dismayed that Lazarus Island had nothing more than a puny coast of sand, we decided to settle for a picnic in front of the beach, unglamorously next to a construction site.

After some food, we decided to explore more of Lazarus Island and were faced with devastations of the recent drought. For the first time in more than 150 years, rain hadn't fall for over 2 months in our rainforest climate.

Our aimless wander brought us to the other side of Lazarus Island. The side that took our breath away. It was one of those eureka moments!

Compared to all the beaches in Singapore, Lazarus Island has the most gorgeous beach I've ever seen locally. I couldn't believe I'm in Singapore!

The beach is unknown and undeveloped so visitors are few and it is devoid of amenities. Except for a few private yachts and beachgoers, the beach was practically empty. And surprisingly, most of the visitors seemed to be non-Singaporeans. Such an irony that foreigners know better than the locals to sniff out such a hidden gem.

Totally loving it here with the clean and green waters! Better come soon before it gets populated. My only grouse was that although human presence was minimal, flotsam and jetsam weren't scarce. I cleared out a square of drift-wood with rusty nails, styrofoam meal boxes and an empty water bottle with cigarette butts in them from the sea and beach. 

I'm not trying to interview for a job with NEA (National Environment Agency) but I hate to see such a beautiful place marred by inconsiderate litter. If you visit, please keep the place clean as no one picks up after you since the island is kind of ulu.

Kusu Island

The last stop of our three-island excursion ended at Kusu Island. If you do not wish to visit Kusu, don't get off the boat and take it back to mainland.

According to legend, a tortoise turned itself into an island to save two shipwrecked sailors - one Malay and a Chinese. That's why this island is affectionately known as Tortoise / Turtle Island and there's a Chinese temple (大伯公) as well as Muslim shrine on it.

Trees on Kusu Island were not spared the effects of the drought.

Religious harmony... a Catholic umbrella sheltering a Taoist altar at a Muslim Shrine. Only in Singapore!

Three Malay kramats (holy shrine) sit at the top of a jagged low hill at Kusu Island.

Glad for a wonderful exploration of Singapore's little known Southern Islands! If the lobster red of Jeffrey, our friend visiting from Hawaii was any indication, sunblock is a must and love for adventure is a plus!

Maritime Sunset

Back at Marina South Pier, our haste to find comfort after a long day was postponed by the beautiful sun setting over PSA (Port of Singapore Authority). On your return from visiting the Southern Islands in the evening, don't be in a hurry to leave. Head up to the rooftop of Marina South Pier and take in the sunset view.

The rooftop on level 3 of Marina South Pier offers a 360-degree lookout of the surrounding.

6:45pm... I'd seen many breathtaking sunsets over beaches but this unobstructed appreciation of an urban sunset over our port was an equal spectacle in wonder and grandeur!

I've read about Lazarus Island for quite some time and finally got to check out the place for myself. Personally, I think it was well worth the effort to visit and get lost in one of those last few deserted spots left in Singapore.

I truly enjoyed this hard-to-come-by pristine stretch of shoreline and urge you to contribute towards its conservation by keeping it clean when you visit. Happy splashing!