If there is only one thing that have to be done for any first-timer to Kota Kinabalu, it is to experience the grandeur of Mount Kinabalu.
Being the highest peak in the Malay archipelago (which includes countries such as Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei, Philippines and East Timor), the mountain is as much renowned for being one of the most Epic Hikes of the World as it is revered by local indigenous tribes as the sacred forever place of ancestral spirits.
A climbmatic experience of the formidable mountain would be to go on a daring 2D1N trek to its summit. But for those of us with legs of still (instead of steel), the good news is that there are several scenic spots to get a climax from Mount Kinabalu nonetheless.
These prime viewing spots of the mountain present themselves along the way to Kinabalu Park; some of them designated, some of them requiring a quick eye to spot a photo opportunity by the side of the road. Of the designated spots, Pekan Nabalu is the most popular for..
Entrance to Pekan Nabalu, a popular pit stop for taking postcard shots of Mount Kinabalu.
Located about 12km from the entrance to Kinabalu Park, the small market town is a popular toilet stop and also for guides to give climbers a preview of the mountain. In older days, Pekan Nabalu was also a gathering place where surrounding local tribes mix and barter trade.
A 15m tall watch tower (which was closed during my visit) and a giant pineapple mark Pekan Nabalu prominently. Looks like Spongebob would feel right at home here. LOL
GETTING TO PEKAN NABALU
For a tourist, I can't think of any better way to get here than following a packaged day tour or booking a private transport to go and get back. Pekan Nabalu should be a pit stop on a full-day itinerary that typically covers Kinabalu Park, Desa Dairy Farm and Poring Hot Spring.
Pekan (which means "town") Nabalu is about 2 hours by car from Kota Kinabalu's downtown tourist hub where Jesselton Quay is located.
Peakture Perfect
At the
edge of Pekan Nabalu is an unobstructed viewing platform to get awed by
Mount Kinabalu. As the top of the mountain is usually shrouded by
lenticular cloud, it takes good luck to get a glimpse of its peak and a picture with it.
Although
the best chance of seeing the mountain top clearly is purportedly before
10am, we arrived around 11am and still managed to meet the peak. Glad
that the rabbit's foot was on us that day :)
A fading signboard identifies the 4 visible peaks on the mountain top, namely (from left to right) - Alexandra Peak, Low's Peak, St John's Peak and South Peak.
A small pavilion provides shelter from the sun while taking in the view of Mount Kinabalu.
Nature framing nature... The mountain is an inspiration behind several local legends and folklore ranging from the resting place for the souls of ancestors to the loyalty and undying love of a Bornean woman married to a Chinese prince. So the mountain is kind of a monument of love in the local culture.
Standing at 4,095.2m, the sole way to earn a right to brag is to trek to the mountain top. Strong legs are not the only requirement for the climb though, as a dangerous 300m stretch along a section of the face of the mountain with just a tight walking space and a sheer plunge off the cliff should one miss a step, calls for a fearless heart as well.
A friend of mine who made it to the summit swore she will never do it again because of the life-ending 300m "Death Stretch". It was dark when she ascended the mountain and did not realise she was flirting with danger. On the way down, when the sun had risen, she discovered to her horror how frightening that stretch was. Without another way to descend Mount Kinabalu, she mustered the courage to make the crossing while chanting to herself "I must make it back alive" the entire time.
People have died falling off the cliff because of negligence or paralysis from fear so consider carefully if deciding to climb. A permit is needed to climb Mount Kinabalu and currently, only about 130 permits are issued daily with a waiting list that lasts a couple of months.
So, if it is not in your mind to make a climb, Pekan Nabalu offers that perfect spot to commemorate having met this geological giant.
Apart from a jaw-dropping view of Mount Kinabalu, rows of stores selling traditional handicrafts, souvenirs, tidbits and fruits can also be found at Pekan Nabalu.
Interior of the shopping hut in the shape of the Dusun tribe's longhouse.
Lizards are considered a good luck charm and symbol of regeneration in local beliefs.
A row of fruit stalls offering a taste of local farming produce. I read that the fruits at Pekan Nabalu are grown organically without pesticides. Not sure how true.
Local snacks and flavourings vie for the tourist dollars at Pekan Nabalu.
Looks like the pineapple is Pekan Nabalu's mascot fruit. It's everywhere.
Behind the rows of stalls, there are other opportunities to frame a shot of Mount Kinabalu so do wander around.
Beyond Pekan Nabalu
Outside of Pekan Nabalu, there are other pocket opportunities to shoot Mount Kinabalu where vegetation along the road has cleared. We took a private van so it was easy for us to request a short stop, safely of course, by the side of the road for a few snaps of the mountain from slightly different angles and foreground foliage.
Shot of Mount Kinabalu from a roadside stop.
Channeling Julie Andrews (from "The Sound of Music") in this roadside shot with the majestic mountain.
Another prime viewing spot of Mount Kinabalu can be found not far from the entrance to Kinabalu Park.
The clouds have all lifted and we had a clear view from the jagged crown of Mount Kinabalu.
Me and my legs of still making more memories with the mountain I might one day find the balls to climb.
After hearing so much about Mount Kinabalu, it was uplifting to finally step into its radius of magnificence. I remembered that when I first got a proper view of the mountain at Pekan Nabalu, a breath escaped me with "Wow, it's impressive."
The thought of ascending it flashed across my mind. Physically, with some training, I could steel up my stamina and pair of walkers to cover the trek, but thinking about the peril of the 300m Death Stretch, my insides liquefy.
Perhaps one day I will conquer the mountain within and make it to that top. For now, I'm happy to just smile and strike a pose. From a distance.
Our crib for the night at Blue Mountains was Fairmont Resort, a luxe pad by Accor under its upscale MGallery Collection. Perched by the edge of a mountain plateau of Leura Village's upper grounds, the resort's prime seat amongst nature's landscaping masterpiece is that kind of place that makes the heart sing.
Classic townhouse-type roofing of Fairmont Resort incite a restive note of country living in the mountains.
The touch of winter sculptured a picturesque silhouette out of the trees that lined the driveway to Fairmont Resort.
Checking in to warm, country bliss. The view at the lobby leads to a peek of the mountainous region beyond.
A night at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains range from S$230 to the upwards of S$400 depending on season, room type and breakfast inclusion.
Welcome to my room!
The first thing that struck me about my room is the s p a c e .
There are many ways to chill in the room and aromatic bath aides made from pure essential oils are a perfect accompaniment to enjoy a sensory escapade high up in the mountains. Sleep came easily after a warm soak in the tub and when I woke up, this scene greeted me...
View from my room's window as the first light of dawn awakened the mountains.
Nature has the best way of saying "Good morning!"
5:44am... Golden hues before the Blue Mountains reclaim the colour of its namesake.
My room faced the mountains at the back of the resort while the actual sunrise is at the opposite side of the resort where the entrance is located. Best location to welcome the sky eye is by the pond next to the swimming pools.
Same sunrise shot with different devices. The photo above was snapped with a DSLR while this pic was taken with my mobile phone. Such differences how they 'see' the light'!
The pool waters were very tempting to dip in but the passing winter gripped this morning at 12 degrees, I donned jeans and warmers to explore the resort at daybreak so jumping into the blue in trunks was a no-no.
View of pool-facing units at Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains where the sunrise can be seen.
The umbrellas turneth a hotel into a resort.
View of Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains' accommodation wing reflected on a pond within the resortel's premises. I think the pond is manmade.
Next to the pool is a gym and heated indoor swimming pool.
The pool's a good size for some serious laps with a heated jacuzzi at the end to bubble tension away.
I can't get enough of the wintry branches that weave photographic poetry.
A stamp-sized suburb lies within the neighbourhood of Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains and I was delighted by how well maintained and manicured the surrounding lodges and landscapes are.
A striking lorikeet I came across whilte wandering a nearby street of Fairmont Resort. To see this feathered beauty in Singapore, I would have to go to Jurong Bird Park but these birds are commonly spotted here.
Another abundant resident at the Blue Mountains is the Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo. Saw a bunch of them grazing an open field at a residential enclave next to the resort.
The field where I saw the cockatoos while the sun turned it into its shadowy canvas.
After a walkabout of Fairmont Resort Blue Mountains and its surrounding, I settled in for a sumptuous breakfast with a delicious view of the tablelands behind me This is the place to feed the eyes and the appetite!
Unfolding itself across 11,400 km² of Sydney's western inland, the Blue Mountains is roughly 16 times the size of Singapore, which makes it a mammoth feat to experience all of that nature in a single day. So for a comprehensive adventure in the mountains, we came to Scenic World Blue Mountains to get an all-in-one glimpse of the region's geographical features, forestry, history and even some heart-stopping thrills!
Panoramic view of the Blue Mountains from a lookout point at Scenic World.
Scenic World is like a Happy Meal where you get a taste of the mountains' buffet of naturescape in bite-size. From jaw-dropping views of the mountainous region to digging into its past as a coal mining hotspot to nature walk, Scenic World tops off these breathtaking escapades for the senses with a 3-mode transportation system that links one experience to another. The 3 transportation modes are known as the Scenic Skyway, Scenic Railway, and Scenic Cableway. Yeah, you get the drift... the sights they pass through are really scenic!
Entrance to Scenic World... a gateway to sample what the Blue Mountains have to offer in summary. We visited at almost closing time so the place was relief of hordes of tourists.
This is my second visit to Scenic World, the first being in 2012 where I took a one-day tour package that brought me to Featherdale Wildlife Park, Scenic World and Jenolan Caves for about A$120 (inclusive of lunch).
As our visit was pretty late, we had the benefit of being the last few tourists there and that's a good thing when it came to the rides... we got the cable car cabin all to ourselves and front row seats on one of the rides!
We went on the popular route that loops the rides with the sights that goes like this...
1) Taking a return Scenic Skyway ride from the entrance that glides across a valley with a hovering view of Katoomba Falls
2) After the Scenic Skyway, boarded the thrilling Scenic Railway to the Scenic Walkway that's lined with Blue Mountains' coal mining history and cuts through a section of the ancient forest
3) Following the trek is the Scenic Cableway that ascends the steep face of a cliff back to the starting point at the entrance
Scenic Skyway Across Jamison Valley with Iconic Views
Gliding 270m above the ancient gorge known as Jamison Valley, the Scenic Skyway opens a moving window to iconic sights of the Blue Mountains that included the Katoomba Falls, Three Sisters and Mount Solitary.
Taxi in the air... the original cable car system was built in 1958 and reconstructed in 2004 into the Scenic Skyway today.
I'm happy as a clam for having the Scenic Skyway capsule all to ourselves! The central aisle is fitted with a glass bottom so you can watch the valley scroll by beneath your feet.
Katoomba Falls... A three-tired waterfall cascading at an estimated 244m. 'Katoomba' means "shining falling water" or "water tumbling over hill" in the native Aboriginal language.
Scenic Railway Ride That Raises The Heart Rate
After the Scenic Skyway, we got our adrenalin revved up with a steep down slope slide on the Scenic Railway. Built in 1882 as part of a network of tramlines used to haul coal and kerosene / oil shale from mines in the valley below, the railway is converted into a hair-raising ride for visitors.
The first passengers to ride the coal carriages were a group of exhausted bushwalkers in the 1920s. This could very well be the ancestor of modern-day roller-coasters!
Touted as the world's steepest cable-drive passenger funicular railway at a 52-degree incline, this is one thrill ride not to be missed at Scenic World. It clocks a speed of 4m per second, enough to drain blood from those who dare ride it.
To up the scream factor, seats on the Scenic Railway can be elevated according to your lung capacity to shriek. We went for the Cliffhanger and I wouldn't be surprised if the staff thought there's a little girl on the ride.
FRONT. ROW. SEATS.! Plunging down a nerve on the face of a mountain through enclosed tunnels and forest bed, the Railway ride felt like a journey back in time.
Scenic Walkway Through Industrial And Natural History
Disembarking from the Scenic Railway, we arrived at the Scenic Walkway that consists of a 2.4km elevated boardwalk meandering through former coal mining sites and the Blue Mountains' ancient rainforest.
Coal mining began in the area in 1878 with up to 40 mines at its industrial peak. Those chunks of black rock in the coal skip of this cast-iron diorama are actual pieces of the fossil fuel mined here.
The mines were subsequently closed to preserve the mountains with the last mine ceasing operations in the late 1930s.
Passing the mines, we stepped onto an elevated boardwalk that cuts through the prehistoric forestry of the mountains. Be prepared for sightings of lyebirds, a ground-dwelling avian species native to Australia.
These birds have a remarkable ability to mimic natural and artificial sounds in their environment and our guide told us that he once heard one that sounded like a jackhammer! The male lyebirds are also known for the beautiful plumage of their long and showy tail feathers. We saw a lyebird rummaging through the forest floor during our walk but it disappeared before I could get a shot.
The rainforests of Blue Mountains are believed to be at least 470 million years old with towering tree ferns like this completing that Jurassic aura.
Scenic Cableway to the Roof of Sydney
The final segment of our Scenic World experience of Blue Mountains is a ride up Jamison Valley in the Scenic Cableway. Added during the turn of the millennium, the aerial fish tank offers a stupendous 360-degree view of the surroundings as well as a chance to get closer to the jagged sandstone cliffs and peaks. It felt like I'm a flag slowly being raised and seeing further and more of this World Heritage site the higher I went.
The Scenic Cableway ferries passengers on both the ascend from the valley floor to the top and descend from the escarpment back to this lower point of the 545m journey.
View of Mount Solitary as the Scenic Cableway climbed the heights. In the foreground is Jamison Valley cloaked with lilly pilly, possumwood, cedar wattle, pepper bush, tree fern, grey myrtle and eucalypt.
Three Sisters at Echo Point
One of the key sights at Scenic World is a vantage view of the famous Three Sisters rock formations at Echo Point overlooking Jamison Valley.
An aboriginal legend has it that three sisters from the Katoomba tribe fell in love with three men from a neighbouring tribe but marriage was forbidden between the two tribes according to tribal laws. Unhappy with the laws, the three men sought to abduct the sisters by force and a tribal war ensued.
To protect the sisters, an elder turned them into three rock boulders with the intention of returning them into human form after the battle. Unfortunately, the elder was killed during the war and no one knew how to reverse the spell. And so the three sisters stand forever entombed as watchful guardians from the valley.
The truth about the Three Sisters is that they were caused by the erosion of soft sandstone by wind and water.
Meet the sisters... Meehni (922m), Wimlah (918m), and Gunnedoo (906m). There seem to be a 4th 'sister' dwarfed on the extreme right. Child of Gunnedoo perhaps?
The essential shot with the Three Sisters at Scenic World Blue Mountains.
Like my first visit, my second trip to Scenic World Blue Mountains was over in about an hour. If you are not in a herded tour and have time on your side, you can take the rides multiple times and explore more of the walking tracks at Echo Point and Jamison Valley.
For a break from Sydney's cityscape and beaches, Blue Mountains definitely offer a serene and tranquil getaway to clear the mind and renew one's awe of nature. And Scenic World contains the essence to see and experience more of the Blue Mountains.
