I've never been to Japan but from movies, tourism promotion and friends' travel tales, I've imagined many things about it as a holiday destination. My borrowed impressions painted Tokyo as the epicenter for a crash course on J-Pop culture, Kyoto as the chief city to retrace the footprints of imperial Japan, Hokkaido to fill up on fresh seafood, April is the time that an explosion of cherry blossoms sweeps across the nation, and Mount Fuji will take your breath away. Literally. If you've not heard, the Aokigahara Forest at the northwest foot of Mount Fuji is notorious for being a suicide forest.
However, of all the impressions I've formed about Japan, there's one thing that I've never associated the country with... that it is also a beach resort perfect for a relaxing getaway.
But thanks to CTC Travel and Okinawa Convention and Visitors Bureau, I got to break my nihon virginity and toed my first foray into Japan with an exploration of the Yaeyama group of islands. For as far as Japan off-the-beaten-track goes, I've definitely reached the edge!
Located at the southern most tip of Japan, Yaeyama Islands can be dubbed the 'Asian Hawaii'. The best time to visit is between late March (end spring) and end October (end autumn) although typhoons and unexpected weather may visit during these months. Our 5D4N trip in October had been blessed with mostly sunny days that heated up the sea for swimming yet cool enough for a comfortable trek inland. It's Goldilocks-approved weather! This photo of sunshine breaking through the clouds both above and below was shot atop the observatory at Banna Park, Ishigaki Island, with Sony Xperia Z.
Sharing the same latitude with Central Taiwan, Yaeyama Islands is a collection of 31 islets (of which 11 are inhabited) in the Pacific Ocean. The administrative heart of the islands is Ishigaki Island which houses an airport to receive domestic and international visitors. During our trip, we island-hopped from Ishigaki to Iriomote, Taketomi, and Kohama.
At the moment, there are no direct flights from Singapore to Okinawa and Ishigaki. To get there, you have to take a flight from Singapore to Tokyo and fly to Ishigaki (12 hours) or fly to Taipei and transit to Ishigaki (8 hours).
We took a specially chartered Singapore Airlines flight by CTC Travel direct to Okinawa Naha Airport (5 hours) and connected to a domestic flight to Ishigaki Airport (45 minutes) which greatly cut down the travel time. Check with CTC Travel on their next available direct chartered flight to Okinawa (currently in March and October) and upcoming packages to Yaeyama Islands.
A prelude to the crystalline waters and shallow shores that beckon at Yaeyama Islands en route a 45-minute flight from Okinawa Naha Airport to Ishigaki Airport. The minty sea made me want to jump plane!
All I 'sea' as the plane approached Ishigaki Island was blue surf and slapping waves all around. I've finally stepped foot in Japan for the first time! The off-center donut flag next to the Japan flag is the mark of Okinawa. Yaeyama Islands is under the Okinawa Prefecture.
Being way off from mainland Japan (it takes 3 hours to fly from Tokyo to Ishigaki), Yaeyama Islands seem to exist as a microcosm where local traditions, dialects, and formulas to a long life are very much alive.
I've never thought that my numero uno trip to Japan would be a sun-sea-sand type of holiday as I've always envisioned my first visit to coincide with the season of sakura in Tokyo. You know, it's kind of like you want your first time to be really special.
But having taken in the sights, sounds, tastes and feel of Ishigaki, Iriotome, Taketomi and Kohama, I'm glad I started experiencing Japan right at its roots... where nature is allowed to be natural and a good time can be had with just a three-stringed shamisen on a buffalo's back.
Ishigaki Island
Our exploration of Yaeyama Islands began with a touchdown at Ishigaki Island, the biggest island and administrative core of the group where 80% of the southernmost population resides. While Ishagaki is very developed with urban infrastructure and good-looking resorts, nature is never far with spongy mountains, rolling greens and scenic bays a short drive away.
We spent about 2 days in Ishigaki and got to exhaust our vocabulary for blue at Kabira Bay, go on a snorkeling and diving excursion not too far from shore, wormed through a prehistoric underground limestone cavern, climbed the observatory at Mount Banna, went rural at a traditional Yaima Village, had the rare opportunity to step inside an astronomical observatory for star-gazing, and had our tastebuds delighted!
It was also at Ishigaki that we were initiated into the secret of the Okinawan's longevity. According to research, Japan has the highest population percentage of centenarians and the highest rates are found in the Okinawa Prefecture where Ishigaki is a part of.
A holiday destination that adds years to your life... why not?!
Kabira Bay at Ishigaki Island. The bay is a no swimming zone to minimize disturbance to the black pearl aquatic farms nearby. Visitors can board glass bottomed boats to observe the sea life below.
Onboard a glass-bottomed boat to find dinner, I mean, appreciate the underwater ecology. Whoops!
If you're lucky, you can spot stingrays and turtles but all we saw were Neptune's scraps from his marine buffet. The boatman's commentary was also in Japanese so if not for our English-speaking guide, we had no idea what to pay attention to or were looking at.
Hey buddy, it's no time to feel blue! Not far from Kabira Bay is Club Med Kabira where this droolicious beach belongs. The presence of a branded five-star resort is testament to the appeal of Yaeyama Islands as a premium beach holiday hotspot.
Resistance to the call of the glass-clear sea is futile. And the best way to soak it all in is with a snorkeling / diving excursion! I completed the snorkeling experience with a video capture of the underwater sights using the waterproof Sony Xperia Z.
The smartphone cannot snap photos while underwater though and to shoot the video, I had to tap the video record button while above water and then bring it underwater (see video below). It is still a really cool gadget to have without needing to carry cumbersome waterproof casing for cameras and the video quality is remarkable. Very impressed!
Away from the splish-splash, we dropped by Ishigaki Yaima Village and were introduced to features of traditional Okinawan houses in Ishigaki, learnt to play the shamisen and met some adorable but quick-footed squirrel monkeys.
Although it has only 3 strings, the shamisen is so hard to master! Well, maybe because I have spastic fingers.
These 2 'villagers' at Ishigaki Yaima Village made me feel young again.
To bring home some souvenirs, we came to the Yu-gurena Mall which is really just a two-street covered shopping arcade.
Our cultural experience at Ishigaki continued unfolding at the Mineya Minsa Weaving Center where we learnt the art of traditional weaving techniques preserved over generations using Yaeyama Joufu linen and threads. Mnisa weaving is actually a token of love. I've weaved myself a piece waiting for it to be given away :o)
Showing off our legs at the entrance to Ishigaki Island Stalactite Cave. I've been to a couple of such caves but they were in mountains or coastal cliffs. This is the first time I visited an underground stalactite and stalagmite cave.
Worming through the prehistoric womb of Ishigaki where the island's geological history are recorded on the stony pillars. The star at this gallery of rocks is a stalagmite formation that resembles the famous Gibil cartoon character, Totoro! Check out my Instagram album to see what it looks like.
From looking beneath the ground to gazing beyond the sky, Ishigaki Island is an explorer's playground.
Part of the secret to the Okinawan's longevity is the food they eat which consists of large amounts of fresh catch, bittergourds, Mozuku seaweed, purple rice and get this... longevity leaf (长命草). Yes, the elixir to a long-life does exist!
The other part to the longevity formula is having fun. One of our dinners at Ishigaki was a treat as much for the stomach as it is for the spirit with song and dance!
These snapshots of my explorations at Ishigaki Island are only a brief peek at what the island has in store for holidaymakers. While the attractions at Ishigaki Island can easily pack a 3D2N itinerary with activities, it is worth spending some time to hop off to nearby islands either as a day trip or overnighter as every island has something different to offer.
Iriomote Island
The next island on our trail was Iriomote Island, the second biggest island in terms of land surface area after Ishigaki. Iriomote is a 35 minutes boat ride from Ishigaki and home to pristine naturescape that celebrates the handiwork of nature in the form of mangrove lined riverine, secluded waterfalls and star sand beaches.
At Iriomote, you can also get on a water buffalo taxi to the almost conjoined Yubu Island to visit a rustic outdoor theme park.
One of the attractions that got us most excited on the trip was the star sand beach at Iriomote Island. Can you spot the star-shaped sand grains in the above photo?
Although my Timberland walkers were unbelievably comfortable, I couldn't resist going for a wade in the turquoise waters.
Another key attraction at Iriomote Island is taking the buffalo drawn cart to Yubu Island. Along the way, the ojisan would pluck his shamisen and croon folk songs. Time seemed to slow down and urged us to delight in simplicity.
Yubu Island has a bounty of hibiscus, fruiting plants, and other perennials as well as a butterfly garden. But my favourite spot was the buffalo stable where this calf cast me a curious glance before trotting over. So cute!
The other animal that you'll see a lot of (in photos on billboards all across the island and souvenir shops) is the Iriomote Wildcat. Indigenous to Iriomote, this endangered feline is bestowed the status of a living treasure on four legs. Can you spot the obvious difference between this wildcat and those meows under our HDB void decks? Hint : it's the ears.
After Yubu Island, we cruised down Urauchi River and got upclose to the island's mangrove ecology while the undulating hills parted like a curtain at every turn. As the river is linked to the sea, infant sharks sometimes seek refuge in these waters.
The Urauchi River adventure trail included a jungle trek to see the Mariyudu and Kanbire Waterfalls. Although the sun was ablaze, the temperature was pretty cool so we weren't drenched in perspiration during the 1.5 hour trek. If I were to do this hike in Singapore, underwear confirm wet wet!
It was quite a pant getting to Kanbire Waterfall (behind me) as we were rushing through the jungle trail and back to board the last boat back to our starting point. Even my t-shirt had its tongue out from the rush. LOL.
Our night on Iriomote Island was spent at Nirakanai Hotel. This shot of gentle surf washing over the coastline like a sheet of liquid glass is the beachfront at the hotel.
Nirakanai Hotel organizes night kayaking at an open lagoon not far away. I love kayaking but have never paddled at night. What a thrill!
Kayaking under the watch of the moon while clouds played a game of hide-and-seek with the stars was, for the lack of a better word, magical. This photo shot with Sony Xperia Z (because it is waterproof and great for wet adventures) doesn't show the full scale of just how mesmerising the scenery was during the night kayak. The enchantment has to be experienced in person.
Taketomi Island
The third island we checked out was Taketomi Island, which is a mere 15 minutes boat ride from Ishigaki Island. Taketomi is home to the ultra-luxe Hoshinoya Resort as well as the more budget friendly Peace Island Hotel. This has got to be the trip where I've seen the most hotels!
Other than hotel inspections, we also found ourselves on the back of a buffalo cart once again for a tour of Taketomi Village, went to the island's star sand beach (Kaijihama Beach) and had some splash time at Kondoi Beach. dropped by got to visit a really nice beach that stretches without end into the ocean.
Hoshinoya Taketomi Resort is built in the style of a traditional Okinawan village with 48 individual luxurious villas. Expect to pay the upwards of S$500 per person per night.
An observation deck overlooks Hoshinoya Taketomi Resort while the unusual oval pool is a conversation piece. The resort is great for honeymooners.
A more economical accommodation on Taketomi Island is Hotel Peace Island that offers rooms that can sleep up to four at around S$300 per room per night.
Taketomi is a pretty small island so the lodges are not too far from most attractions. We visited Taketomi Village on a buffalo cart and got to see the birth home of Asadoya Kuyama, a beautiful woman who defied the marriage proposal of an unsavoury government official. Her courage was immortalised in the popular Okinawan folk song, Asadoya Yunta. Play the clip below to listen to the song while you continue reading this post :o)
At Taketomi Village is the Nagomi Lookout Tower where you can have a panoramic view of the village. But watch the narrow stairway leading up the tower though. It is quite treacherous.
My singlet scared people dunno where I am... LOL. I have a problem with being subtle. We finally got some time to frolic in the water at Taketomi's Kondoi Beach. The crescent-shaped beach stretches endlessly into the sea and was littered with sea cucumbers!
Hadouken on a sandy pit at Kondoi Beach. Notice how far away we were from shore.
Another glorious sunset shot to add to my collection. This photo was shot with Sony NEX-5T and sent via Wifi to the Sony Xperia Z for editing and posting onto my Instagram but decided to use it in this blog entry instead. So glad I caught at least a sunset during the trip because no beach holiday would be complete for me without a shot of the retiring fireball.
Kohama Island
On the last day of our trip to Yaeyama Islands, we made a dash for Kohama Island (15 minutes boat ride from Ishigaki). Ishigaki Island is the gateway to the surrounding islands as there are no direct ferries inter-connecting the smaller islands. That is, to get to Kohama, we can't just take a ferry from Taketomi but have to go back to Ishigaki and take a ferry from there.
Kohama is a small island anchored by two high caliber resorts - Hoshino Resort Resonare and Haimurubushi Resort. The former is a sprawling golf resort while the latter is a center for sea sports.
Spotted these kawaii golf headcovers at Hoshino Resort Resonare. They definitely added a touch of whims to a very serious game.
Snapshots of Haimurubushi Resort where we had lunch.
Unlike the common single-tiered bento boxes, our lunch was served in a double-tiered lacquer box.
My moniker for Haimurubushi Resort is the "hotel of rides". I got to drive the island buggy to the beach as well as ride the jet ski and banana boat.
The Haimurubushi Resort's sea sports center and clubhouse.
Depending on weather conditions, certain sea sports may or may not be available. But it is just as nice to do nothing and chillax on the recliners with a cocktail in hand.
The private stretch of beach stretches for miles with aquatic thrills for kids and adults.
We had a blast with the sea sports and ended our exploration of the Yaeyama Islands on a high! Really thankful for all the awesome people (in and out of this photo) that I got to travel with on this trip!
While there is no lack of beautiful islands for an idyllic escapade or indulge in the adventures of eco-tourism closer to Singapore, the Yaeyama island chain offers great respite as the beaches aren't crowded with people, umbrellas and peddlers trying to sell you something. The coastal sceneries are also breathtakingly dramatic with crystal clear waters hiding nothing of the shallow shores that stretched endlessly into the sea.
The other thing I really enjoyed on the trip was the food. I felt myself getting healthier with every bite I took of the fresh produce from the islands. When I go on group tours, I usually restrict my food intake to minimise the need for toilet time but not for this trip. I was practically a human vacuum cleaner.
Best of all, the sub-tropical weather in autumn had just the right degree of hot and cold. It felt like going to the beach in an air-conditioned room. You get the sun, sea and star sand but not the sweat!
Political conspiracies, secret intelligence units, an attempted murder, grand parties with musical legends... they read like the pieces of a puzzle that come together in a blockbuster thriller except for one thing. They all really happened here at The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur.
According to historians and eyewitness accounts by former patrons, the idea for United Malays National Organisation (UMNO) was first hatched within the walls of The Majestic, and secret units of World War 2 Allied forces allegedly exchanged information at the hotel. Then there was the story of a murder foiled by bad English at the bar, which also heard the chords of the likes such as The Mills Brothers, Freddy Cole and The Original Rat Pack. And this is only the tip of the iceberg of The Majestic's colourful past.
The Majestic Hotel tour bus with a reflection of the Railway Administrative Building. First opened on 15 August 1932, Hotel Majestic, as it was known back then, was the choice hotel for many travellers entering Kuala Lumpur. Despite its popularity, the hotel was closed half a decade later on 31 December 1983.
I had the good fortune of being invited for a staycation at The Majestic KL and sampled YTL Hotels' brand of class and luxury. But before we check into The Majestic, I would like to show you the hotel's location, which has within its neighbourhood two of KL's most magnificent heritage masterpieces... the Old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station and Railway Administration Building (now the head office of KTM Berhad).
Art framing art... Vew of the KTM Admin Building through an arch of the Old Railway Station.
The KTM Admin Building is an excellent example of Moorish architecture that glorified the Ottoman and Moghul stylings in the 13th and 14th centuries and blended with Gothic and 14th century Greek designs.
An immaculate mishmash of Neo-Moorish, Moghul, Indo and Neo Saracenic architectural styles that were popular at the turn of the 20th century gave the Old Railway Station a regally handsome appearance.
Both buildings were designed by Arthur Benison Hubback who served the British Public Works division in India for a while before he hybridized classical architectural elements from the different countries and periods in a number of Anglo-Asian monuments in the region. The Old Railway Station was completed in 1910 while the KTM Admin Building was finished in 1917.
Like massive historical lungs that breathe life into the modern city's culture and heritage, it's hard not to notice their presence despite being upstaged by the PETRONAS Twin Towers.
Pull back the camera angle a little further and sitting there next to the tanned KTM Admin Building is another icon of colonial Malaysia, Hotel Majestic.
The Majestic Hotel - Majestic Wing
Built as much by cement and mortar as it is with the sands of time, The Majestic KL is a living monument intertwined with Malaysia's history as well as a place of nostalgia for many yesteryear explorers who have passed through its halls.
Hotel Majestic was more than just a luxurious accommodation but a venue where foreign dignitaries, celebrities and local luminaries mingle and socialize. The hotel played host to numerous events big and small until the end of 1983 when it was closed. As the hotel had proven itself to be an icon of the Malaysian social tapestry, the building was retained and converted into The National Art Gallery.
And now, almost 30 years later, Hotel Majestic has been revived by YTL Hotels to reawaken the glamour and splendor of this national treasure.
The veil of time lifted to welcome a new chapter in the hotel's history.
Something old, something new. The Majestic Hotel comprises 2 wings... the Majestic Wing (which is the original 5-storey Hotel Majestic, refurbished) and the Tower Wing (a new 15-storey addition to the site).
Corridor leading to the private reception of Majestic Wing.
Felt like I walked into a period movie set or a Jane Austen's novel. The restorers took pains to recreate the hotel's neo-Renaissance meets Art Deco design and stylings.
Security personnel with pith helmet and specially tailored uniform! Hotel staff are dressed in costumes authentic to the era. It's as if the mid 1900s never left.
Remember I mentioned about an intended murder screwed by bad English? Here's what happened... One day, a lady stomped into a dining hall where her husband was eating with another woman (presumably his mistress). When the restaurant captain approached the wife to take her order, the infuriated woman ordered "code 55 and 2 bulat". That baffled the captain as there was no cocktail by that name on the menu. Apparently, she had asked for a "Colt 55 and 2 bullets"!
Thanks to the mispronunciation, bloodshed was spared and The Majestic bar turned this unfortunately fortunate incident into a signature cocktail. So yes, Code 55 and 2 Bulat (pictured above) is now on the cocktail menu! Cocktails are priced at RM48++.
Resurrecting the colonial flavours on a grand scale at The Tea Lounge and The Bar of The Majestic KL.
A very interesting incident happened while I was trying to photograph the pianist playing the grand piano. He is none other than Mr Ooi Eow Jin, a talented musician cum composer who produced some of the biggest Malaysian hits in the 70s.
As I approached to take his picture, he immediately stopped and sprang to his feet. "You've never seen a piano before?" he asked, visibly displeased. I was taken aback at his outburst and explained that I just wanted to take a photo of him with the piano because I think it was very charming.
"I'm a staff here, not something for you to take photo!" he replied irritably. I wanted to reason with him but I realised I haven't been sensitive and intruded on his performance. So here's the only photo I have of this living musical legend. His back.
Apart from the open Tea Lounge, patrons can also enjoy a cuppa in this private and cozy room.
What a beautiful setting to sip tea!
This scene is an automatic pinkie lifter.
The Majestic Suites
Having seen the main hall's gorgeous Colonial mien, my anticipation was mounting to see the Governor Suite which I'll be staying in. The Majestic Wing has a total of 47 classic suites with personal butler service!
Ascending the steps to certain luxury...
Hallway leading to the rooms.
And this is the interior of my Governor Suite's living room. It's G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S!
When it comes to interior décor, I'm more of a minimalist-Zen kind of guy who gets dizzy when there are too many colours and textures going on in a room. But this, this me likey!
Love the "high-society" feel of the suite and it comes with complimentary drinks (juices, soft drinks, beers, and wines) in a mini fridge concealed under the flat-screen TV. The open doorway on the right leads to the room.
The bedroom... again, it's G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S! I think I should just copy the 'G' word and just paste it on all the photos in this post.
The bathroom's checkered tiles and fittings remind me of a chic boutique salon.
A bathtub with feet? This is the first time I'd seen one. The double-ended clawfoot tub really upped the retro-luxe ante and quite a stunner!
Breaking dawn... As I peeled back the curtains, happiness flooded my room.
Having been to KL many times, this is the first time I caught a sunrise in the city. I imagined the splendour of watching this sunrise back in the 1930s without the modern high-rises.
My morning reverie was interrupted by a ring of the doorbell. The butler-served in-room colonial breakfast I ordered has arrived.
I asked for something extra on top of my Western breakfast... a couple of toast with homemade kaya just like the old times. The kaya's taste, texture and consistency sweetened up my morning.
Having breakfast in the suite was so relaxing and offered much comfort to start the day. I really enjoyed my night in the Governor Suite. It felt like a home I never had.
Retrolicious at Colonial Café
Bringing together the best of classic European favourites and Asian culinary traditions, the Colonial Café offers an extensive menu that marries the East and West on our lunch table.
For hot appetisers, Fried Chicken Wings are found on the same page as Escargots while the mains see Rosemary Lamb Chops given equal billing with Old-Style Hainanese Chicken Rice Ball.
And if you look closely, you might spot some hilarious menu offerings such as the Old Style Faggots (wild mushroom mash with mace infused sauce) and the Spotted Dick!
Colonial Café may have a Western set-up but the menu offers both European and Asian delights as well as Colonial Cuisine (I call it 'Eurasian Food').
I had this Baked Seafood Crab Shell (RM55) that looked really good.
For my main, I went for the Baked Honey-Glazed Cod Fish made taller with Battered Onion Rings (RM130). Tastes good but the serving size is kinda small for the price.
This is the Spotted Dick (RM45)... which is a rich dessert pudding with spices, currant, orange peel and custard. It's a mouthful of creamy cumcome-and-get-it.
Goreng Pisang a la Mode (RM45) is a Eurasian fusion of deep-fried banana fritter we so loved with vanilla ice-cream. I don't know how it is possible but the batter for the banana was really light and fluffy.
The Smoke House
This one's more for the guys. The Smoke House is an extension from the Majestic Wing that houses a cigar appreciation room, pool table and bar, private dining room, and men's grooming salon by Truefitt & Hill.
Recognised as the Oldest Barbershop in the World by the Guinness Book of World Records, the Truefitt & Hill men's salon offers all the grooming pampering a man can need. From a hair cut to facial hair landscaping to Face Massage, this is the gentleman's personal care haven! Prices range from RM30 - RM110.
The Majestic Spa by Spa Village
A separate annex building next to the Majestic Wing is YTL Hotel's signature Spa Village that harvests indigenous therapeutic massage techniques and improve on them for the relaxation and wellness of patrons.
Enjoying a cuppa and camwhore moment while waiting for our massage rooms to be readied. Lulu looks so comfortably demure in her bathrobe. LOL.
One of the cool thing at The Majestic Spa is that you can order an alcoholic cocktail! None of the spas I've been to offer anything other than tea and having light booze before a massage at The Majestic Spa was so much more chillaxing. If you are not allergic to alcohol, definitely opt for the alcoholic cocktails when offered a pre-massage drink.
Working the art nouveau style of Charles Rennie Mackintosh's (gasp, he's not selling computer?!) famous Willow Tearooms décor, The Majestic Spa has a rather enchanting country house appeal.
We meet again at The Majestic Spa! This is my therapist, Saroj, who gave me a very good rub down at Gaya Island Resort (another one of YTL Hotels' vacation must-go).
A herbal foot soak and bath primed me for my massage session. It was so cool that the water for my foot bath was poured from a porcelain jug like the olden days!
I went for the 2-hour Herbal Sports massage (RM550++) that revitalises overworked bodily systems and tense muscles with a herbal poultice blend of rosemary, thyme, mint, lavender and rose.
It was the first time I experienced a massage using steamed herbal ball compress and the botanic scent coupled with the warmth was extremely soothing and tension relieving.
The Majestic Spa patrons get to chill by a pool reserved exclusively for them. After my massage, I eased over a pot of chamomile next to the blue to extend the bliss.
Staying at The Majestic Hotel's Majestic Wing is definitely a teleport back in time where the illustrious and halcyon years come alive once again. With its exquisite suites that come with personal butler service, retrolicious Colonial Café to enjoy high-tea and scones or dine on East-West classics, and the various exclusive pamper houses, living it up gets taken onto a whole new level at this time capsule.
And who knows, you just might make it into the new chapters of The Majestic Hotel's vibrant history!
