Pengerang - 2nd Attempt at Bicycle Tour from Sungai Rengit to Desaru

Date of Exploration : 13 - 14 Jul 2013

After the unsuccessful attempt at cycling from Sungai Rengit (Pengerang's main town) to Desaru in March this year, I'm left with a splinter in my bike tour ambition. So I'm back at Pengerang again to try it a second time!

All geared up. A lesson learnt from the first cycling trip is to be fully covered up from the sun. I only had on my mid-length cycling shorts the last time and I got burnt from the knees down. This time, I wore long tights beneath the shorts.

Details of how to get to Pengerang and other information about the seaside town are detailed in my previous post (click here to read) so I won't repeat them here. Instead, this post will document new discoveries I made on this trip and more long distance cycling tips.

All ready to fight fatigue and the long ride ahead to Desaru! Will I be successful in reaching my destination with this second attempt?

Feeding time to fuel up for the journey at Sin Kong Restaurant. Tried the steamed lobster this time and although freshness still oozes from the meat, it was rather over-cooked. The Teochew-styled steamed pomfret was not bad but the simple Nai Bai fired with garlic is my perennial favourite. Total bill came up to RM106 with 2 plates of rice and drinks. 

Doubled up on our fluid supply since we ran out halfway during our ride the last time with just a 1.5L bottle. Face mask is also necessary to keep from eating road dust. Penned on smile is a must too to greet oncoming traffic and other cyclists :)

Powering up with the newly launched reduced sugar Red Bull.

Cycling on the road always calls for extra vigilance even if the countryside gets little traffic.

Life goes on. What looks like a Lapwing who died from a broken wing.

While I'm all geared up with helmet and full-length garbs, the couple behind me were not so kiasu. We took the same boat from Singapore and the guy has cycled the Sungai Rengit to Desaru route 8 times!

Along the way, we passed by a couple of cute ponies grazing by the roadside.

Mane attraction... Farrah Fawcett reincarnated?

We were in such luck to get upclose with these beautiful creatures. Awesome!

Long and winding road. Thank God for the overcast and cool weather that weekend which made cycling more enjoyable. But photos turned out flat though.

After about 3 hours of paddling, we arrived at this spot where we stopped and turned back the last time because we were so tired. But not this time, we are going to carry on beyond this point!

The road never seem to end! A real test of will power and stamina.



Met Ronald and Joanne who read my entry about Pengerang to plan for their cycling expedition. So surreal to meet people who actually read my humble blog. Hope the both of you are seeing this. Thanks for visiting my blog and it's been a great pleasure meeting you both! You've inspired me to go further than Desaru next time.

Light at the end of the road! Turning right at the roundabout which is just a short distance ahead, we finally reach...

... our destination! We made it to Desaru after an almost 5-hour journey (started at 12pm, reached at 4:30pm). We could've reached sooner if not for the various photo stops along the way.

Desaru Damai Beach Resort Review

After cycling 35km, our butts were toasted so we decided to rest for a night at Desaru Damai Beach Resort. There are 3 resorts (the other 2 being Lotus Resort and Pulai Resort) next to each other along Desaru beach but we chose Damai because it is the most cost effective.

A night at Damai Beach Resort starts from RM130 (est. S$58) for a twin-share room and comes with breakfast. We took the RM130 room since we just wanted to rest the night before cycling the 35km back to Sungai Rengit.

A RM20 refundable deposit is required at the point of checking in although I wonder why that was necessary. It didn't seem possible to break anything since the resort is already rather old and broken!

Appearance-wise, Desaru Damai Beach Resort resembled more of an old-school dormitory rather than a hotel. When we asked for a room, the guy manning the reception pass us the key to go inspect the unit first, which I thought was an odd practice.

But it is necessary to check that everything is in working order in the room first before taking in. Damai Beach Resort has more rooms than there are staff to maintain them in good condition. The couple who cycled to Desaru 8 times had a room with no electricity. Our room (no. 206) looked fine but we later found out that the toilet bowl doesn't flush.

The room was spacious but the paint work and furnishings were aging. Black stains spot the base of the bathtub and the towels smelled like they came from a bar. The pillow retained the odour of the previous guest who didn't seem to favour washing his / her hair and the bed was too soft. Got quite a few mosquito bites in the middle of the night too.

But the worst part was the attached balcony. Lots of yellowed and disgusting looking cigarette butts littered the floor. We wanted to have a drink at the balcony while enjoying the sound of waves but got turned off after seeing how dirty the balcony was.

The swimming pool at Damai Beach Resort looked decent though but it closes very early, at 6.30pm. It's the weekend but the resort was rather empty and the gift shop, restaurant, karaoke and other facilities were closed.

With nothing really better to do at Damai, we decided to check out the resort's beachfront and entertained ourselves by camwhoring. Heh heh...

My favourite photo thanks to the skill of Siow Har, my photography, and now, cycling kaki! This angle and timely capture of the rushing waves made me look like Poseidon rising out of the sea. Muahahaha...

'V' for victory! We conquered the long ride and upslopes, the butt sores and muscle burns, but most of all, we preserved and didn't quit!

Check out my kawaii mosquito patches! Since nothing seem to be operating at Desaru Damai Beach Resort, we cycled over to Pulai Resort which is just next door for dinner. On hindsight, maybe we should've stayed at either Pulai Resort although a room cost at least RM260. The ambience and mood is much better. A dinner buffet of Malaysian favourites at Pulai Resort cost RM48++. Food quality was not too bad but the dishes were spread around the parameters of the restaurant which made it quite tedious to walk.

The next morning, we departed Desaru Damai Beach Resort at 9.45am for our ride back. The resort may not be a very good stay but the price point was reasonable. Staff were pretty friendly too. We wanted to stock up on water for our journey but the gift shop was closed (it never did open once during out stay) so we asked the kitchen to fill up our bottles, which they did.

Reaching the Destination was Only Half the Journey

While we were jubilant on reaching our final destination, that joy was quickly dowsed by the thought of riding back. But having done it once, completing the ride again didn't feel like the hell it was before.

Look ma, no hands! Riding like it's my grandfather's road. Please don't follow my bad example on safety!

On the way back, we saw this sign pointing to certain new discoveries and the curious explorer in us decided to follow it.

Following the sign, we turned into a short road which leads to a stretch of beachfront at Batu Layar. Nothing much here except for a provision shop cum eatery serving a small population of beachgoers.

We took the opportunity to take a break and go bananas.

Mutiara Bay at Batu Layar is relatively quieter than Desaru beach although the water and sand quality are the same.

Further down the stretch of Mutiara Bay is an outcrop of statuesque black rocks with very interesting formations known as Pantai Delima Putih.

The jagged rock profiles reminded me of some monstrous sea creature's teeth. A perfect backdrop to 拍 shameless 写真集! LOL  

Further upshore, attempts at commercializing the rocky attraction is apparent. A resort sits nearby but it looked like it didn't host any guests for a long time. I thought it was abandoned until I caught a glimpse of someone watching TV at one of the huts.

Taking the Batu Layar path was a good choice because we got to ride along the beach away from the main road and the road brought us into traditional Malay kampongs and a small fishing village.

A kampong school.

"Moo-ve out of my way and stop disturbing my peace!" the cow seemed to say.

One of the landmarks that helps us gauge our location from the expanse of green fields is this mosque. Seeing this, we know we are about half way to Sungai Rengit.

It drizzled slightly on our ride back and that kept us nice and cool despite the effort we exerted on the paddles. But if it rained any harder, I think we wouldn't be able to carry on so do bring along a raincoat and plastic bags to waterproof your belongings. And yes, we made it back!

Double 'V' for twice the victory of making it to Desaru and back! Returned our bikes to S.H.H Motor & Bicycle Trading, the only bike rental shop at Sungai Rengit. A bike's rent costs RM15 (S$6.10) per day.

Before embarking on this second attempt, Siow Har and I were prepared to be totally trashed physically by the 70km ride but surprisingly, we didn't suffer as much aches as we did the first time.

It must be due to our constant hydration with energy and isotonic drinks as well as eating an apple or banana at the half way mark to fuel the exercise and snuff out cramps. The gloomy weather helped a lot too as compared to the blazing heat we cycled under during the previous ride.

If you're looking for a short weekend getaway that's different from the usual packaged tours to Desaru, why not try cycling there? You'll definitely arrive home much fitter than before! :o)

Related Post :

Cycling Tour from Pengerang to Desaru (March 2013)

Kota Tinggi – 2nd Click Clique Adventure

Date of Exploration : 8 – 9 May 2010. Took a weekend trip to Kota Tinggi’s waterfall in time to cool off from the recent heatwave. Is it me or is the weather really climbing up the thermometer? I don’t remember May being so bitingly hot in the past…

But the weather wasn’t the only bother that got me boiling. Arranging this trip was a whole lot of chasing to the point where I almost wanted to give up. First of all, it was very hard to get the commitment from our driver to go. He was always ‘maybe’, ‘could be’, ‘have to make arrangements’, but never confirmed in the 2 months that the trip idea was discussed.

The driver (and his car) was the key to the trip and it was difficult to plan with ambiguity. If it was a last minute trip, I can understand the problem to commit. Then just say ‘no’. But if it’s planned 2 months in advance, there’s ample time to make any necessary arrangements to make the trip happen. Else, just a simple ‘no’ is welcomed rather than to leave me hanging. I guess when most people make their decisions, they forget that they’re a part of the decision-making process of others. It’s not a nice feeling having to give up another activity to make this trip happen while the other travelers are perpetual ‘Shouldbedoos’ (think Scooby Doo).

Decisive by nature, I have a problem empathizing with wishy-washy characters. If you can, say ‘yes’ and make any upcoming plans around this commitment; if you can’t, say ‘no’ and allow others plan ahead. If you’re not sure, tell me by when you can give a confirmed answer and give it. Sometimes I wonder if indecisiveness is a tactic to make ourselves feel important.

The other challenge was also to toe the soured relationships between some in the group. Based on my understanding from both sides, I could see that intentions were good, rationales were valid, but the execution was flawed and lots of miscommunication in-between. However, I’m so very glad that this trip worked out well and things were the way they were before.

Sometimes we get in trouble with people because of our words or actions intentionally or unknowingly, or we may be troubled because we hold on to being done wrong. With the flowing of a river or a waterfall, the same water will not pass by twice, so I’m glad bygones can be bygone and whatever that stole our joy was allowed to flow away and letting the waters put out all fires of fury...

ABOUT KOTA TINGGI

Kota Tinggi is a small town in Johor Bahru, Malaysia, well-known for its 34m cascading waterfall from the 634m Gunung Muntahak Mountain. The fall creates refreshing pools ideal for cooling off in the afternoon heat. The waterfall is also known as the Lombong Waterfall.

I’ve been there once a long time ago and had plain forgotten what it’s like so this trip felt virginal. The first thing that struck me was how murky and brown the water looked. Should be clean but definitely not crystal clear. And it was very chilly despite the morning heat. The difference in water temperature was really apparent when I took a dip in the resort’s swimming pool after soaking in the waterfall. The pool’s water was warm and felt light compared to the cold and heavy fall waters. However, I felt much more refreshed and light after a dip in Mother Nature’s saliva.

The Kota Tinggi town itself is rather small with its town centre and major developments, such as a very modest shopping centre and retail complexes, situated along a river. The waterfall is situated about a 15 minutes drive from the center. We drove to Kota Tinggi from Singapore and it took us about 1 hr 30 mins via the Tuas Link. Just take the highway and after clearing about 2 tolls (or 3?), you’ll see directional signs that point you to Kota Tinggi.

You’ll cross a bridge over a river when you enter into the town and along the banks is where most of the developments are including the boarding site for the Firefly Tour. Apart from the waterfall and Firefly Tour, there’s really very little else to do at Kota Tinggi. As part of our exploration, we drove up to the Desaru Fruit Farm and Desaru beach. We also had the Kota Tinggi Crocodile Farm in our itinerary but gave it a miss due to lack of time.

KOTA TINGGI WATERFALL RESORT
Weekend Hotel Room rate : RM150.00
Weekend Chalet rate : RM180.00

Around the vicinity of the waterfall, there’re 2 accommodation choices – Kota Rainforest Resort and Kota Tinggi Waterfalls Resort. Kota Rainforest Resort is about a 5 minutes drive to the waterfall, more expensive of the two, but looked in better condition and newer. Kota Tinggi Waterfalls Resort is right where the waterfall is located but has no ‘wow’ factor.



We stayed at the Waterfalls Resort due to its proximity to the natural pool. To get there, follow the brown signs that say ‘Air Terjun’. That means water (‘air’) fall (‘terjun’) in Malay. We missed the turn into the resort initially because we were looking for English signs that said ‘waterfall’. Well, they were right before our eyes the whole time but we don’t read Malay! The authorities should really include an English translation in the signs.



The resort is surrounded by forested areas and provides a rustic sanctuary embraced by nature. Facilities include air-conditioning, fan, TV, and fridge. There’s also a restaurant while food tents line the bank of the rock pool. But on hindsight, maybe we should’ve tried the Rainforest Resort instead because the room condition at the Waterfalls Resort was rather appalling. One of the room’s air-con didn’t work, I found gecko shit on the sheets, and the TV was the size for ants. Then again, maybe the other resort isn't any better.

Both resorts do not have online booking facilities. I had to email them to check rates and availability. The Waterfalls Resort is represented by Impressions (impressions@impressions.com.my) and I was required to TT the full amount of the lodging price to secure my reservation. Since it was such a hassle, we decided to just walk in and book 2 chalets. There’s no difference in rates for walk in or email booking and a RM200 deposit is required. Towels and remote control for the TV were issued at the reception counter and you must bring those items back to the reception for check-out.



The saving grace was of course its closeness to the waterfall. There’re 2 parts to the Kota Tinggi fall that are accessible. The lower part consists of a section of the natural fall with a dammed up pool with slides, while an upper part was kept pretty much natural. There’s a stairway by the side of the lower fall that leads to the upper fall. It takes about 15 minutes of easy trekking.



I preferred the upper part because there were less people and the feeling of swimming in a natural pool surrounded by a forest was just awesome! But be prepared to be nibbled on by fish in the rock pool much like those fish spas. They were not painful, more ticklish… or maybe because I have thick skin. Haha.

But I thoroughly enjoyed dipping in both the upper and lower falls. Totally refreshing and inspiring to think that the waters had gushed relentlessly and with such velocity over so many years… much like how youth slides from us with such vigour. Every droplet represented a second and how I will never get back the time which has flowed.

DESARU FRUIT FARM & BEACH

Our self-planned itinerary included a visit to the Desaru Fruit Farm. Located 39km from Kota Tinggi, it took us roughly 30 minutes to drive there. I read that many different varieties of tropical fruits can be found in the farm and there’s even a small petting zoo and aviary. A guide will take you around while giving you a commentary on the plants either on a bull cart or your car.

But when we got there, no one greeted us or showed us where to go for the guided tour. We planned to have lunch there too but it didn’t seem like the cafeteria as operating and a set meal costs RM45! So after wandering around for 10 minutes without seeing anything of interest, we left.

We had lunch at a nearby food stop where everything was fried with too much oil and headed for Desaru Beach. From the roadside hawkers, it was another 15 minutes drive. Again, I’ve been to Desaru eons ago. I think I was 15 years old when I made the trip with my secondary schoolmates. I remembered the beach was white and powdery, and the waves were huge. It’s impossible to swim in that tidal assault so I never understood why people want to go there from then on. Desaru became a joke of a vacation destination for me and never went back.

How very different it was this time round. The beach was still desirable, but the sea was a calm inviting blue! How I wished I could plunge in but alas, this wasn’t planned for so none of us came prepared to frolic in Poseidon’s embrace. Apparently, the mood of the waves has seasons. So I guess May is when it is on Xanax.

Like a diabetic kid in a candy store, the only way to release that pent-up enthusiasm was to find a replacement. So we decided to create our own fun by taking jump shots. With the beautiful sky and turquoise ocean as our backdrop, our frogging moments turned out really great. I love those photos.



FIREFLY TOUR
Touring hours : 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm
Tour ticket : RM20.00

One of the must-dos at Kota Tinggi is the Firefly Trip. After taking the cruise, we left in awe of the magical presence of nature. Like Christmas trees flickering by the water’s edge, the visual symphony was simply spectacular.

Found in the berembang trees that line the banks of the Johor River, fireflies are actually beetles and spend 9 months as a glowworm (larvae state) before becoming an adult. The lifespan of an adult firefly is 2 weeks with the sole purpose to mate. Different species emit a different pattern of light to attract its own kind.



We bought our trip tickets (RM20.00) from the resort hotel although you can also buy it on the spot (don’t know if it is the same price). There was no pick up from our resort or map given so we had to make our own way there. The boarding place is located along the river where the town centre is. When you drive into Kota Tinggi, you’ll cross a bridge and the firefly tour jetty is located not far from it. If you lose your way, just ask the locals for directions.

The tour lasts 45 minutes and it is best to go for the 8pm slot as that’s when the sky is dark enough. The best time to see the fireflies is during moonless nights. If it rained during the day, you’ll be rewarded with a bumper view of the flies. It didn’t rain during our visit so what we saw was pretty sparse but magical nonetheless. Also, it was impossible to take photos of the fireflies because it’s too dark. So forget about photographing and etch the image in your head.

THE FOOD

We didn’t explore much of the gastro-offerings of Kota Tinggi but we found this restaurant called New Mui Tou that’s affordable and good enough. It is along one of the streets near the Firefly Trip and opposite Hotel Seri Kota. We had dinner there and went back again for lunch.



Dinner : Chili Crabs (though they looked more like pubic lice), Cereal Prawns (so-so), Hot Plate Tofu (yumz!), Wild Boar with Ginger and Onions (super yumz!), Fried Potato Leaves, 5 Man Tous, 1 bowl of rice, creackers, tea, and 2 bottles of Heineken.
Total Bill : S$50.00

Lunch : Fish Meat Steamboat (so-so), Sambal Squid (yumz!), Wild Boar with Ginger and Onions, Sweet and Sour Pork, Stir-Fried Vegetables, Fried Noodles, 1 bowl of rice, crackers, and 5 drinks.
Total Bill : RM87.80 (S$37.80)

OTHER DISCOVERIES

After dinner and some shopping at the riverine pasar malam, when were wondering what to do and found this karaoke, Big Box. It was newly opened so the place was nice and clean, the karaoke system works superbly, and the drinks were really cheap.

A bucket of 4 bottles of Tiger beer costs RM38.00 and a cup of honey lemon tea only RM3.00! The room charge was RM25.00 per hour. I tortured my friends with my singing till 2am.



And we woke up at 6:30am the next morning to shoot sunrise. We don’t know of any place to shoot so we just drove out to a field about 5 minutes from the entrance of our resort hotel. Nothing really much to shoot and by then, the sun was too bright to be photographed well.



We left Kota Tinggi totally tired. Although it was a small town, we managed to max out our 2 days 1 night there. Even though I encountered some frustrations organising this trip, the company quickly dissolved the stains and the waterfall washed the black away. Don't waste time holding on to bad times.



For more photos from the trip, please visit my album Kota Tingi : 2nd Click Clique Adventure.